Lock Sticky? Door Not Closing Smoothly?

I love my work. People always say that is one of the greatest things you can have in life, to love what you do. But, as much as I love it, I also love helping people save money and educating. If your lock is suddenly difficult to operate, or if your door is rubbing against your door frame, you may only have a small issue to address. Repairs for these problems are usually relatively easy to do and cost very little, if anything at all. Here are a few simple steps you can take—regardless of your skill level or mechanical experience—to diagnose and possibly fix the issue yourself.

Step 1: Check the Strike Alignment

The "strikes" are the metal plates mounted to the door frame, not the door itself. One of the most common causes of a deadbolt that doesn’t operate smoothly is a misaligned latch strike (typically the lower strike—the rounded one that the spring-loaded latch engages).

Standard residential latch strike

Start by measuring from the edge of the door frame to the near edge of the opening in both strikes. The lower latch strike should usually sit about 1/16 of an inch deeper (further back) into the frame than the deadbolt strike. If it's not, adjust the latch strike position until it is as close to this measurement as possible.

If the latch strike won’t stay in place, the screw holes in the wood may be worn or stripped. In that case, you’ll need to repair them by:

1. Drilling the existing holes to a consistent diameter

2. Inserting glued wooden dowels

3. Letting the glue dry, then pre-drilling and reinstalling the screws

   
   

   Step 2: Inspect the Hinges for Sagging

   
   

   Another common issue—especially on exterior residential doors or frequently used commercial doors—is sagging due to hinge wear. This causes the latch or deadbolt to hit the lower edge of the strike opening, leading to binding.

   
   

Avoid the temptation to grind or file the strike plate; while it may offer short-term relief, it doesn’t address the underlying issue.

Instead, try this temporary fix:

1. Prop the door in place with a wedge or door stop. Make sure it's open far enough that you have room to work.

2. Remove the top and bottom hinges, leaving the center hinge in place.

3. Swap their positions—put the top hinge on the bottom and the bottom hinge on top.

   
   

This hinge swap works because the top hinge (which has typically been stretched) and the bottom hinge (usually compressed) now oppose each other’s wear, helping to correct or overcorrect the door sag.

This method can also help if your door is rubbing against the top corner of the frame. While this is a temporary solution, it can be surprisingly effective—sometimes lasting a year or more. Ultimately, replacing the hinges is the long-term fix.

If you don't feel comfortable attempting these repairs on your own, we are just a phone call away!

Quality hardware can make all the difference

As the saying goes, "You get what you pay for." This adage holds particularly true in the realm of door hardware, where the quality of the materials and craftsmanship can significantly impact both the aesthetic appeal and functional longevity of your installations. When selecting door hardware, it is essential to consider not only the initial purchase price but also the long-term value and performance of the products you choose.

Lesser hardware brands often utilize inferior materials and manufacturing processes, which can lead to a range of issues over time. For instance, cheaper options may begin to tarnish, fade, and deteriorate far more quickly than high-quality alternatives, such as solid brass kits. Brass is known for its durability and resistance to corrosion, making it an ideal choice for door hardware that is exposed to the elements. The investment in high-quality hardware pays off in the long run, as it maintains its appearance and functionality much longer than its cheaper counterparts.

Reflecting on my own experience, I installed this premium hardware on these doors almost five years ago, and I can confidently say that it still looks beautiful and performs flawlessly. This longevity is a testament to the craftsmanship and quality of the materials used in the product.

While it may require a higher upfront cost, investing in superior door hardware is well worth the expense. Not only does it enhance the overall look of your doors, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication, but it also saves you from the headache and expense of multiple service calls for maintenance or replacement in the worst cases. Frequent replacements can quickly add up, negating any initial savings you might have enjoyed from choosing cheaper options.

In conclusion, when it comes to door hardware, opting for quality over cost is a decision that will yield significant benefits over time. By choosing solid brass or other high-quality materials, you ensure a lasting investment that enhances both the functionality and aesthetic appeal of your doors, ultimately providing peace of mind and satisfaction for years to come.

How to properly repair a drilled safe.

One of the most common questions I get asked about safe drilling is, "is this going to compromise my safes security." And it's a fair question. I would also want to know that the place my valuables are secured is... well... secure. I often tell people that a properly repaired safe is usually stronger than it was before drilling began, depending on a couple of factors.

We start by going through all troubleshooting measures first. Even if the client tells us they have done all of this themselves. It never hurts to do it again. In many cases, I've begun troubleshooting and found a non-drilling solution. After verifying that drilling is the next step to resolve the problem, we get straight to work.

This is the safe I was working on in this case. A liberty gun safe with an electronic lock. The keypad has already been removed for the photo.

After taking careful measurements, marking and prepping the door for drilling, I hook up my rig and get to it. The drilling process doesn't take very long with the proper tools and a short time later, I'm in. The hard plate from the factory is 3/8 of an inch thick. This is pretty standard for Residential Gun safes. In the next picture you can see the hard plate through hole. This is the hole where the cable or spindle get through the door to where the lock is mounted.

The round pin where the metal is a different color is where my hole was drilled to open this safe. This point is different depending on the safe model and the lock used. That pin is my repair. A tapered, hardened steel pin. It is over an inch long and is installed from inside the door, preventing it from being removed from the outside. It would be possible to drive it inside, but the lock will cover it. If the lock is driven off the door in a modern safe, it will deploy a relocking mechanism which will securely lock the door and require that the safe be drilled again. I don't recommend doing that. Drilling for a relocker is typically much more frustrating than drilling the lock.

Outside of the door, after the repair is completed, the evidence that it ever happened is nearly invisible. More than that, the safe now has over 1" of hard steel protecting the lock rather than the 3/8 of an inch before beginning the process. This will make it much more difficult to drill again if that ever has to be done. That said, lock failures are relatively uncommon and I've never had to drill the same safe a second time.

If you do ever need a safe opened, I recommend that you ask your safe tech to explain their repair process. I've seen more than a few safes that were not properly repaired after they were opened.

-Dan Bailey